The author has been climbing, on and off, for *^% years now, a long time. In this time there are some things which have been mentioned as theoretically possible, but have come under the category of ‘that never really happens….’ – well, sometimes it does!
When climbing a lovely 5.7 bolted route at Indian Cove in Joshua Tree the other day at the start of a climbing trip, I took in the rope for my second and the first runner came out and sailed down the rope. Ordinarily I’d have thought that maybe I’d put in a poor runner (not unheard of!), or that maybe a nut had been unseated by pulling the rope – but it was a bolt!
So clearly the rope, when pulled up, had run in such a way as to cause the gate of the karabiner to be opened against the bolt. Not unimaginable, but the first time I’d seen it – so the moral of the tale is that Murphy’s Law* states that if something can go wrong, it will go wrong – sometime. Thankfully it was in a non-critical situation, but we can all revise our theory so please check out this DMM video – why not?
*Murphy’s Law was named after Captain Edward Murphy, an American engineer who coined the phrase. Follow the link for more info.
Carabiner and Bolt Interaction from DMM Climbing on Vimeo.