Girlguiding UK Climbing and Abseiling Scheme

The crags outlined in the first section below are classed in general as mountain venues and cater for single pitch activities, however there are some venues that are old quarry workings, which are totally sound. Extensive use of artificial placement is necessary for protection in most cases. There are on some venues metal stakes and pegs for protection but careful scrutiny and inspection are advised. A reconnaissance prior to using any venue would be beneficial to the supervisor / leader in order to establish the amount of equipment required which will reduce client waiting time and will help in establishing parking areas. A common sense approach should be adopted by the supervisor / leader in order to reduce saturation at some venues due to them being very popular amongst outdoor activists. This will also enhance the relationship between groups, landowners and tenant farmers especially in the light of the latest foot and mouth epidemic.

The majority of the venues are located in the Snowdonia National Park with fairly easy access to them, however there are some that are a little obscure but will be outlined accordingly.

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For simplicity in locating the venues it is anticipated that you will be familiar with Betws Y Coed, a small hamlet in the heart of Snowdonia.

Venue: Holyhead Mountain Anglesey Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 219829 Sheet No: 114 (1:50:000) This is a good venue for the more experienced and ambitious and has a selection of graded climbs, these can be found in the Gogarth guidebook. This venue is very easy to reach, as the main by-pass is now open heading to Anglesey. On reaching the railway station at Holyhead follow the signs for South Stack, this will take you initially through a built up area eventually leading to a single metal road after about one mile. Continue along this for about half a mile where a right turn can be made up a short hill, if you look right you will see the venue on the skyline. On reaching the brow a café will be seen immediately on the left, car parking is available there providing you purchase something from the proprietor. However some fifty metres or so there is another area where you may park but some theft has occurred there. From this parking area a footpath will lead you into the venue in approximately fifteen minutes.

Venue: Fach Wen Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 566621 Sheet No: 115 (1:50:000) This venue is a small affair, which can become very congested with groups. It lies at the bottom of the Llanberis pass and beyond Llyn Padarn. Passing Llyn Padarn on your right after approximately three quarters of a mile turn right along the (B4547) after approximately seventy metres turn right again over the river. This will eventually lead you to the crag after half a mile; there is limited space for vehicles on the right opposite the venue, which is on your left. There are some bolts in situ with some trees at the top for placing protection. Lower offs are preferable.

Venue: Vivian Quarry Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 586605 Sheet No: 115 91:50:000) Travelling back along the A4086 towards Llanberis from the previous venue you will approach the main Snowdon Railway station, prior to this a turning left will take you towards a visitor centre and pay and display car park. Vivian quarry is approximately ten minutes walk up steps passing various levels of old workings. A point to note here is that it does not lend itself to any climbing but it is excellent for abseiling especially if the weather is inclement or you have a morning to spare if travelling home that day.

Venue: Tremadog Upper Tier Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 568407 Sheet No: 124 (1:50:000) An excellent venue with majestic views overlooking Porthmadog. It is ideal for all abilities. This venue is gained by travelling along the A4086 from Betws Y Coed to Beddgelert and eventually towards Porthmadog. Prior to reaching the junction with the A498 and the A487 you will notice an old mill on the right opposite a fuel station where you can park. At 563402 take the small road leading north east to gain a footpath through fields and a small wooded area, this is a fairly steep ascent which takes approximately twenty minutes. There are in situ some old pegs and metal stakes but mainly the protection is made up of personal equipment. Rope protectors would be advisable. It is possible for lower offs to take place but if a responsible person is situated at the top then clients may walk easily down a descent path. A good abseil venue is to the right hand side of the crag away from the main climbing area.

Venue: RAC Crag Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 697573 Sheet No: 115 (1:50:000) This venue is so called due to there being a RAC telephone box in the lay by opposite the crag many years ago. It can be gained by travelling along the A4086 from Betws Y Coed towards Capel Curig and Plas Y Brenin National Outdoor Centre (PYB), on passing PYB the crag is situated on the right hand side of the road some two kilometres away. You may park in the lay-by mentioned above. The venue is small in relation to the others outlined but offers a good introduction to the novice or beginner. The protection is generally made up of personal equipment. There are a few trees in situ but one should consider the environmental issue to prevent unnecessary damage.

Venue: The Ricks and Racks Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 708579 Sheet No: 115 (1:50:000) This venue is very similar to the RAC crag but slightly larger and can be seen soon after leaving PYB approximately one kilometre away on the right hand side. The protection is similar to that of the RAC crag. Lower offs are preferable. Rope protectors are advisable for both venues.

Venue: Capel Pinnacles Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 724581 Sheet No: 115 (1:50:000) This venue is again reached by travelling from Betws Y Coed towards Capel Curig. At the junction of A4086 and the A5(T) an outdoor shop and café will be seen on the right, behind these is a car park (free) at grid ref 720583. Walk back to the main junction and look slightly left and you will see the crag up on a small hill. Access is gained by following the footpath through the field approximately five minutes walking time. This venue is also small but excellent for the beginner. There are a series of large boulders around the crag where one can practice bouldering. Protection is mainly made up of personal equipment. Lower offs are preferable.

Venue: Gwern Gof Isaf Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 684599 Sheet No: 115 (1:50:000) This venue is found in the Ogwen Valley to the north west of Capel Curig along the A5(T). Parking is available at the farm for £1.00. Follow the path to the main farm building where a footpath leading behind a climbers club hut, a stile then leads you to a footpath which in turn leads you to the base of the crag. It is a small venue but again suitable for the novice. An abseil area to the west of the crag is good for the novice as it is not too intimidating. Protection is made up of personal equipment. Lower offs are preferable.

Venue: Tryfan Bach Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 671601 Sheet No: 115 (1:50:000) This venue is probably the most popular crag in North Wales as it has everything for the beginner to the most proficient. It is gained by travelling along the Ogwen Valley as for the previous venue. You may park at the farm/campsite area for £1.00 which is far safer than parking on the main lay by as traffic tends to move fast along the straight, parallel with the lay by. The crag at its south western end exceeds the height of twenty five metres therefore the supervisor/leader will be required to climb and set up a top rope which can be controlled from below. It possible to pitch climbs in one at the northern extreme of the crag. Protection is all made up of personal equipment. It is an excellent abseil area also.

Venue: Tin Can Alley Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 648603 Sheet No: 115 (1:50:000) Further along the Ogwen Valley there is a café and parking area at grid ref 649604 (pay and display), directly behind this café there are the remains of an old quarry approximately fifty metres away which is the venue. This is ideal for a quick introduction to top rope climbing. It is small but adequate and very popular with groups.

Venue: Carreg Foel Gron Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 745426 Sheet No 124 (1:50:000) Travelling along the A470 south from Betws Y Coed towards Blaenau Ffestiniog you will eventually come across a junction with the A470 and the B4391, Take this for approximately four kilometres to another junction B4407 heading north. The crag is approximately seven hundred metres up on the left, which easily visible as you approach it. Parking is available at the little lake below the crag. It is an excellent venue for all abilities. Some of the routes are long therefore top rope climbing controlled from above is recommended however there are climbs that can easily be controlled from below. It is south facing and dries quickly. Protection is made up of personal equipment but there are some metal stakes in situ. Rope protectors are recommended.

Venue: Bwlch y Haiarn Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 778589 Sheet No:115 (1:50:000) From Betws Y Coed travelling toward Capel Curig you will come across The Ugly House (Ty Hyll) at grid ref 756575 where a junction is taken up a steep hill immediately to the right of the house. Follow this for this until you reach a collection of houses known as Nant Bwlch Yr Haiarn (Nant B.H.) grid ref 779593. The road then descends steeply, on the left hand side a forestry track leads up towards the crag sign posted Tyn Yr Ardd. Follow this for one hundred metres then take an obvious path on the left, this will take you to the base of the crag. Parking is available one hundred and fifty metres further down the road on the left. Do not park at the entrance to the track, as this is the access to a farm. Alternatively you may park at grid ref 778591 further back up the road. There are graded climbs on this crag but not really suitable for single pitch activities. It is however very good for abseiling which is used by the local LEA centre of Nant B.H. Trees are the main source of protection.

Venue: Clogwyn y Cyrau Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 789571 Sheet No 115 (1:50:000) From the main street at Betws Y Coed locate the bridge at grid ref 792566 junctions A4086 with B5106. Immediately on crossing the bridge take the next left turn. Follow this northward for eight hundred metres where a sharp right hand turn is made. Follow this northward for a further six hundred metres where off road parking is available. A track behind a small building will lead you to the crag in approximately fifteen minutes. Careful navigation through the wooded area is important especially if you have not visited the area previously. This crag is excellent for single pitch climbing controlled from below with an ideal abseil point on its west facing aspect. Protection is mainly made up of trees and roots well established. There is also scope for personal equipment to be used. Rigging ropes are advised here as some of the trees are placed well back from the edge of the crag.

Venue: Barmouth Slabs Level 3 Crag (Gellifawr) O.S. ref: 616171 Sheet No: 124 (1:50:000) Travelling towards Blaenau Ffestiniog from Betws Y Coed on the A470. Continue along this until you arrive at the junctions of the A470 and the A493. Turn right on the A493 until you arrive at grid ref 619156. There you will turn right immediately after descending a steep hill. Follow this to a parking area at grid ref 626166. On leaving your vehicle you will come across a y junction at grid ref 625166, take this up hill until you reach a gate and stile, look left and you will see the crag. This venue is perfect for all abilities with easy access to the top of the crag. It is possible to control top rope climbing from above and below this venue. It also has excellent abseil facilities. Set back behind the crag are a number of smaller tiers where basics can be taught. Protection is mainly made up of personal equipment with some metal stakes in situ. This may feel a long distance to travel but you will find it well worth the effort.

Venue: Craig yr Deryn (Bird Rock) Level 3 Crag O.S. ref: 641066 Sheet No: 124 (1:50:000) This venue is the most southerly in the list. Travel along the A470 as for Barmouth but carry on towards Dolgellau. Continue along this road until you arrive at the junctions A470 and A487(T) Cross Foxes Inn. Take this road to the junctions A487(T) and B4405 at grid ref 733114. Turn onto the B4405 and continue until you arrive at grid ref 693082, turn right onto this road and continue until you arrive at a further at grid ref 674072, take this turn off until you arrive at a telephone box, turn left and the crag can be seen immediately. You may park opposite the crag near some farm buildings. This venue has grade climbs on it but are too high for single pitch, however it is excellent for abseiling. The protection consists of some metal stakes in situ.

Cox Wood Campsite, Wrexham

Level 1

Cox Lane
Marford
Wrexham
Clwyd
LL12 0BH

Malcolm Seller 01978 364953

This Scout site has a 30' tower with one side for climbing and one for abseiling. Take care with participants climbing the access ladders as these are open sided - consider belaying them up in wet conditions or for younger participants.

http://www.clwyd-scouts.org.uk/coxwood/index.html

Worlds End, Llangollen

Level 2 (right end only); remainder SPA

This crag is in a lovely setting. The group section is at the extreme right end of the crag and is an obvious area. There are plentiful tree belays right at the top of the crag (remember only these can be used at L2, and even if other climbing protection is available it is outside of the remit of L2 to use it). The first 20m or so of the crag from the right end are suitable for L2; beyond this the crag becomes more open at the top and the territory of SPA holders.

The right end varies in height (increasing leftward) and gives plenty of routes of varying difficulty. Car parking is at the top of the hill about 5-10 mins walk up the road.

Photos illustrate plentiful tree belays at the top - but still take care with selection