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Link to Level 1 Leaders notes

Syllabus (Level 1)

1. Knowledge and Currency

a) Keep up to date with current practices by: climbing; reading publications such as magazines, Association newsletters, and BMC/MLTB publications; and talking to other climbers/group leaders.

b) Keep up a level of climbing and/or instructional activity sufficient to be current
and maintain personal competence and fluency.

c) Be aware of the need for warming up and how to avoid injuries.

2. Personal Climbing

a) Be able to climb confidently using a basic 3 point of contact style, with good use of holds and balance.

b) Be able to climb up/abseil down to a participant who may need assistance, as a last resort.

3. First Aid

a) All supervisors should have received first aid training to at least The Guide Association First Response level, or hold a current first aid qualification.

4. Preparation

a) Find out the ability/age of your group, this may affect the choice of venue/location.

b) Have knowledge of the chosen venue/location, preferably by climbing/abseiling there before taking the group.

c) Check if there are any access difficulties. For example, do you need the SPA to lead groups?

d) Prepare an equipment list.

e) Obtain parents' permission to undertake activity.

f) Appoint a Home Contact and ensure all details of participants are available.

g) Be aware of the nearest first aid provision.

5. Equipment

a) Have a knowledge of equipment available and be able to select the appropriate gear for the group and activity involved.

b) Understand the importance of equipment being the correct size.

c) Be aware of types of equipment which are considered to be no longer appropriate for personal or group use.

d) Be able to maintain and care for all equipment and know how to store it correctly.

e) Be able to recognise when equipment is worn out or is too old and should not be used.

f) Be aware that equipment failure and misuse are the main cause of accidents.

g) Have a logbook system for recording age and usage of equipment.

h) Understand the correct use of the following equipment :-
· climbing helmets
· sit harness
· body harness
· chest harness
· karabiners
· belay devices
· abseil friction devices
· dynamic kernmantel rope
· static kernmantel rope
· tape slings
· accessory cords
· rope protectors

6. Belaying and Ropework

Demonstrate an ability to set up safe and efficient anchors and belay systems for self and others; connect self and others to rope/system.

Demonstrate a variety of different belay techniques, and choose the most appropriate for different situations.

Be able to:

a) Set up bottom rope systems. If already set up check that they are safe.

b) Be able to belay in a safe manner using a variety of belay devices.

c) Understand the advantages and disadvantages of directly tying the harness/belt onto the rope or using a figure of eight on the bight and a karabiner.

d) Appreciate the advantages and disadvantages of indirect and direct belays.

e) Be able to teach belaying to groups in a methodical and clear manner.

f) Be able to supervise groups belaying themselves.

g) Understand how to use ground anchors for the belayer and how to improvise if these are not available.

h) Ensure that the descent from the wall is safe and controlled.

7. Abseiling

a) Understand the need for separate secure anchor points for both abseil rope and safety rope.

b) Have the ability to set up a releasable abseil system and be able to release it under load.

c) Be able to set up a safety rope and be able to lock it off when releasing abseil rope.

d) Be able to belay in a safe manner using a variety of belay devices.

e) Be able to give clear methodical instructions to the participants on how to abseil.

f) Appreciate that sometimes participants will need to be belayed up ladders and be able to set up a safety rope for this purpose.

g) Appreciate that direct belays are much safer than indirect.

8. Safety and Group Management

a) Understand the importance of the group leader's own safety.

b) Be able to select a venue, specific climbs, and equipment appropriate to the group.

c) Ensure to wear a safety rope and helmet when demonstrating.

d) Be aware at all times of what all members in the group are doing, and be able to manage all members of the group whether involved on the climbing wall/abseiling or not.

e) Be aware of the rules governing the use of different locations.

f) Give clear instructions to the group as to where they may go within the wall or abseil tower area. Dangers must be pointed out to them.

g) Check that all long hair is tied back, draw cords, neckerchiefs removed, or tucked out of the way, all rings, watches and bracelets are removed. Check that participants are wearing suitable clothing for the activity and that loose clothing cannot snag the system.

h) Understand the importance of checking all equipment that group members put on and develop the habit of rechecking during the activity.

i) Ensure that group sizes are not too large.

j) Ensure an adequate Instructor/Participant ratio.

k) Be familiar with, and demonstrate the use of, bouldering activities on climbing walls with groups; i.e. setting and demonstrating suitable problems, fielding student, maximum participation, etc. Understand the benefits of bouldering as part of climbing training and its use as a group management technique.

l) Be familiar with Association guidelines on current practice, maintenance of equipment, climbing/abseiling locations etc.